Toiles and fittings

Hi everyone

This week has flown by! I have drafted and made up the toiles for the trousers, waistcoat and jacket plus we had a go at making pockets on Wednesday. The fitting was yesterday and thankfully it all went swimmingly albeit with a few alterations to make and transferring the changes to the patterns, only took me 4 hours! 

Alterations include the jacket and waistcoat being made longer and the trousers taken in and shortened. The back seam will be let out slightly and the armholes will be made bigger on the jacket. I wasn't sure about the lapels on the waistcoat as I thought originally they might be too fussy but seeing it on Yuri I think they look pretty good as they are. They will be slightly smaller anyway as I have added seam allowance on the toile. 

This is the book we are using for the drafting, I'll be investing in this as I really want to make a tailcoat! It has loads of designs that could also be modernised. You can see it on amazon here

 
 

The waistcoat design you can see below along with the toile I made up. I omitted the the top pocket on mine, I also will have 8 buttons rather than 10. You can see the shape of the lapel more clearly in the center picture.

Just an observation, I was looking up images of Teddy boy and Edwardian designs when I came across a picture of Cillian Murphy playing Thomas Shelby in the peaky blinders TV series. I love the series and it's interesting to see the Edwardian costume and how it links in with the Teddy boy designs. The cutaway collar and velvet on the lapels are all part of the look, although as my tutor told me the jacket has been modernised with the shoulder padding and the cut to allow for a slight figure. Interesting little observations I wouldn't have noticed before! 

Schedule for the next two weeks..

 
 

Well now that the drafting and toiles are done it's down to making the real thing! I will hopefully have some finished trousers to show off by the end of next week along with the shirt. Can't wait to get started :)

Michelle x